Discovering the perfect tannin
By Clayton Reabow
During May, I embarked on what I consider the mecca of wine journeys to Burgundy, France. This has always been a long term dream of mine that has for some reason been delayed the last 7 years or so. I was accompanied by my good friend and Burgundy oenophile Chris Albrecht who also happens to be the Winemaker at Bouchard Finlayson.
Chomping at the bit and ready to taste Burgundy
After our compulsory croissant breakfast, we set off for our first appointment at Domaine Faiveley in Nuit St George. The domaine is a reasonably sized operation with ownership of 21 premiers cru and 10 grand crus parcels. We were hosted by the Winemaker, Julian Bordet who provided us with a seated and generous tasting of 9 of their wines, all from the 2015 vintage. The highlight of the tasting for me which surprised me considering I am such a wooded white wine fan was their Montagny 2015 which is a Chardonnay only comprising 10% oak (100% new) and the remaining 90% unwooded and matured in stainless steel. Tasting notes below:
Lemon and lime pithiness with sweet fruit undertone. Subtle aniseed and liquorice spice. The palate is extremely well balanced with perfectly balanced acidity. RP: 16€
And this is what kicked off my journey into understanding the perfect balance between oak and wine.
Winemaker, Julien Bordet with Chris confirming that we were in Burgundy
After some back and forth driving along the Cote d’Or we attended our second appointment for the day in Morey St Denis which I have to admit will be remembered as the highlight of our trip. Domaine Dujac is owned by the Seyess family with the vineyards and wines currently curated by the son, Jeremy Seyess. Jeremy met us in their underground barrel cellar and this is where I had my “tannin epiphany”
In total we tasted 9 Pinot Noirs of which 5 were all grand crus from sites situated in Vosne Romanee and Morey St Denis. To put things into perspective, they share a site with Domaine de la Romanee Conti, the world’s leading and most well-known Burgundy producer with a wine produced from a vineyard site known as Echezeaux in the Vosne Romanee.
My epiphany hit me in the face on wine no. 7, which I initially wrote off as “site syndrome” ( when you believe everything you taste is the best you have experienced until you get home and get let down when you taste the wine again). This was certainly not the case here as I had just enough in my glass for a 3rd helping (the Burgundians are generous). The wine was the Clos de La Roche 2015 and my tasting notes read as follows:
Very floral, spicy and savoury with a seamless tannin structure. The tannins feel as if they are encapsulated in silk or oil. The tannins coat the palate providing enduring balance and structure.
The wine that changed my life: Clos de La Roche 2015
After tasting and drinking Burgundy for so many years, I am embarrassed to say that I have never tasted a Burgundy with such a profile. As the tasting went on and more grand crus were opened I soon realized one simple observation. What separated premier crus to grand crus was this tannin profile which not only changed the way I appreciated wine, but the growing and making of it.
Chris and I in awe outside Domaine Dujac after our tasting. (We stood there for a while)
We did not believe anything was going to trump that visit until we arrived the following day outside the entrance to Domaine Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet. We were in fact lost and by pure chance arrived at the domaine after enquiring with reception where in fact the domaine might be. After confirming our arrival, we were met yet again by the Winemaker, Pierre Vincent who took us down into the cellar for arguably the best Chardonnay tasting I have experienced to date.
Again we only tasted wines from the 2015 vintage which I soon realized was a really exceptional Burgundy vintage. We started with their Macon Verze 2015 produced from a site outside the Cote d’Or in the Cote Challonaise and worked our way back up into the Cote de Beaune vineyards. What I found so refreshing from the visit was their absolute honesty regarding their wines and their willingness to share. Something I truly believe in and feel we don’t do enough of within the South African wine industry.
After tasting a few bottled wines, Pierre Vincent led us into the winery where he conducted a tasting of all their 2015 grand crus sites. To say my mind was blown is an understatement. The wines were for a lack of better words, oxymoron in style. Finesse and elegance infused with power and structure.
The real showstopper presented itself in the Chevalier Montrachet 2015. Tasting notes below:
Spicy orange zest with marmalade tones. Has an understated power with pure elegance and class. Only 25% new oak used
The moment was so big that it required a ridiculous photo in the Chevalier Montrachet vineyard after the tasting.
The vineyard of Chevalier Montrachet in Puligny Montrachet
I highlighted only 25% new oak used in my tasting note as this was a complete revelation and I suppose this part is more suited to either winemakers or wine geeks. For a wine to contain so much power and length and yet only contain 25% new oak astonishes me. It has become an increasing trend in the SA wine industry to reduce oak contact as well as the percentage used. I have never been convinced based on the wines I have tasted locally. Tasting Burgundies such as these produced in this manner has altered my perception.
The following day we had a very fortuitous tasting at Domaine Arnoux in Chorey – les – Beaune. The tasting was not scheduled prior to our trip and only occurred as we had met the son, Jean Baptiste at Bouchard Finlayson a few weeks earlier in South Africa. Here we were treated to a full barrel tasting of the 2016 vintage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which mostly reflected their premieur crus vineyards and their one Corton Grand Cru vineyards.
Jean – Baptiste siphoning Corton “Le Rognet” Grand Cru 2016 from barrel
If this wasn’t not enough, we then proceeded upstairs and tasted through their entire bottled range from the 2014 and 2015 vintage. I really enjoyed their selection of Chardonnay’s produced as a village classification representing Chorey – Les Beaune, Savigny – Les – Beaune and Pernand – Vergelesses. All these vineyards are a stone throw away from the mighty hill of Aloxe Corton producing some of the finest white Burgundy the world has to offer.
During the tasting I noticed how bright and vivid the wines were, especially the Pinot Noir. Granted they were from a younger vintage but had sublime clarity and red wine hue.
Corton “Le Rognet” Grand Cru 2014
As with all the visits we had, Jean – Baptiste was extremely hospitable and humble. It was refreshing to taste wines during our visit of such magnitude and for them to be presented by people with zero ego or arrogance.
In the days that followed, we spent as much time as we could touring the vineyards visiting the Premieur and Grand cru sites. Until visiting Burgundy, I always believed the distinction between the classifications to be convoluted. Visiting and experiencing this made the differences so much clearer to me as can be seen in the image below.
A visit to the Clos de Lambray vineyard
On the right hand side of the image is the famous Clos des Lambrays vineyard in Morey St – Denis. This is a Grand Cru classified vineyard. Directly across the road a mere 10 meters away lies the Morey St Denis vineyard classified as village wine. On close inspection of the grand cru soil pictured below, the soil is rich in organic matter and clustered with marble and limestone.
The grand cru soil of Clos des Lambrays
No trip to Burgundy can take place without visiting the most famous vineyard in the world, Romanee Conti. Unfortunately this was not tasted but certainly next time.
The famous Romanee Conti vineyard in Vosne Romanee
Do you fear an empty wine glass? Do you burn yourself while swirling your coffee? Does the idea of bottled sunshine make you thirsty? Do you agree that grapes are really just wine pills?
If you answered yes to any of the above questions, then you definitely want in on our new and exclusive wine club, aka the “WineCru”:
We have put together a special selection of our Môreson Premium Range wines, priced them at a discounted rate, and even packaged them specifically for our Cru members. There is something to suit every palate, as you will receive a selection of Chardonnays, Pinotages, Cap Classiques, and Cabernets…You can choose how much you spend by specifying which wines you want to receive, or if you’re the more indecisive type, you can collect them all!
We’ve included both current and older vintages so you can really put your palate to the test and explore the effects of bottle-age and vintage variation. For our most adventurous and curious Cru members, we’ll also put together the occasional special “Wine Geek’s” selection (details of which will be communicated to our Grand Cru Members in due course).
These special selections could include some of our limited releases, vinoteque wines, or even some brand new pre-releases before anyone else gets their hands on them, so if you’re looking for something unique and one-of-a-kind to wow your friends at the dinner table, then you need look no further than this.
As if all of this wasn’t enough to induce some serious wine cravings, we’re also offering a list of exclusive members-only benefits to sweeten up the deal and reward our most loyal Môreson fans.
Email: firstname.lastname@example.org for a membership form or more information; or just to talk about wine, we like talking about wine.
An international sculpture exhibition in one of Gauteng’s most beautiful landscapes, complete with exquisite food and wine from the Franschhoek Valley.
Artlogic’s popular Winter Sculpture Fair returns to the Nirox Foundation Sculpture Park near the Cradle of Humankind on the weekend of 13 and 14 May, 2017.
Experience world-class sculpture while enjoying Franschhoek's finest food and wine: Môreson Wines & Miss Molly wines will both be represented as well as our family restaurant, Bread & Wine with Neil Jewell's incredible charcuterie and more.
Visitors will be able buy goods from over 40 exhibitors to tailor-make their own picnic experience amongst the sculptures.
The 2017 Nirox winter exhibition, Open Laboratory, will be open to the public throughout the Winter Sculpture Fair. Visitors can wander the park and discover the artworks, or picnic amongst the sculpture with family and friends.
For more information visit: www.wintersculpturefair.co.za
The Juliet Cullinan Standard Bank Wine Festival returns to Summer Place on16 & 17 May 2017 to showcase South Africa’s finest quality wineries.
Meet winemakers, taste the latest vintages, discover regional differences and discuss when to drink your old wines.
Môreson is proud to be a part of the boutique offering of just 45 wine estates. These wineries have been chosen for their provenance and a mark of distinction to knowledgeable and keen wine lovers. Each winery featured is handpicked for its quality and distinction providing a forum for interaction between wine lovers and talented cellar masters. Our winemaker Clayton Reabow will be there to interact with the festivalgoers.
"My passion for wine allowed me to appreciate, assess and stage the finest wineries for an interested and exclusive audience," says Juliet Cullinan. "Our aim has always been to showcase small, exclusive boutique wineries. We provide a worthy forum for interaction between keen and knowledgeable wine lovers and talented cellar masters. Promoting wineries with a ‘sense of place’ is an old world philosophy in which we firmly believe. We tailor our exhibitor’s list to allow our guests to taste the finest and we keep the crowds down so that everyone can meet and chat to the winemakers."
Date: Tuesday 16 & Wednesday 17 May 2017
Time: 17h00 – 21h00
Venue: Summer Place, 69 Melville Road, Hyde Park, Johannesburg.
Tickets from Webtickets R200 online at Webtickets & R220 at the door.
We certainly have a crush on this wine festival. Don't miss this exclusive chance to taste the line-up above.
The Crush Wine Festival is going back to its origin for the third year running. The past two Noordhoek Crushes have been a huge success raising a substantial profit for charity. Each year they aim to bring the wine farms to you in a fun family focused wine festival.
Date: 29th April 2017
Time: 11 am – 5pm
Price: Entrance is free. For those who want to explore the wine stalls a R150 tasting passport can be purchased (which includes a wine glass).
At The Noordhoek Crush you will have the opportunity to sip, swirl and buy over 100 wines from 20 wine farms as well as 3 craft gins from 333 Distillery.
The Noordhoek Crush breaks aristocratic expectactions where quaffing and spitting wine are encouraged and children are discouraged from attending. We not only welcome your children, but they will be entertained with various kids activities such as face painting & sand art as well as the permanent purpose built kiddie heaven play area.
Last year was awesome but this year we have made a few improvements to try and increase the level of awesomeness;
- Only pre-sold tickets will be available; Last year many travelled from far only to find the event was sold out. This year all tickets will be sold online prior to the event.
- We have made the tickets even more limited. Please buy your tickets early to avoid disappointment. Last year we were a sold out event at 1000 tickets sold. This year we will cut the ticket sales at 750. This means more space, more wine, less queues, more fun, less squish for everyone.
-We have more food stalls and a dedicated food and chill area. With all that wine we need to line your stomachs with an array gastronomic delights; pizzas, sushi, Quesadas. All the Noordhoek Farm Village restaurants wll be open for buisness as usual, as well as providing pop up stalls within the festival should you want to enjoy your lunch on the grass or in the food tent.
-More parking available; Not that we are encourging drink driving, but last year the normally ample parking at The Noordhoek Village was at maximum capacity so this year we have made friends with our neighbours who have lent us a field!
As always an off consumption liquor license is in place so wine can be bought at cellar door prices to consume on or off the premises. The Village Restaurants will be waiving their corkage fees to promote the purchasing and consuming of the wines on the day.
There will be a live band providing music through out the festival.
This event is being hosted by The Foodbarn, The Foodbarn Deli, Café Roux, The Toad In The Village, The Village Sushi and Orderwine.co.za
Pronounced (“Cab-err-nay fronk”), is produced in a variety of countries including the USA, Chile, Italy and more notably France in both the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. The most famous of course belonging to Chateau Cheval Blanc in St Emillion, France.
At Môreson, we have always been fascinated by this cultivar producing our first vintage in 2006 with a mere 3 barrels of wine.
Together with Sauvignon blanc, it is the parent to Cabernet Sauvignon. When grown correctly, it produces wines that can only be described as possessing a combination of strawberry, violet, dusty gravel, roasted red pepper and crushed black pepper. It is a medium bodied red wine with feminine, silky tannins.
Here at Môreson, we only collaborate with producers who are exclusively grape growers and do not produce their own wine. For 10 years, we have worked closely with our grower isolating a few rows of the 2.8 hectare vineyard to tailor-make the product before you. The vineyards are grown on iron rich granite based soils, scattered with flakes of quartzite. Soils such as these produce elegant wines packed with richness. Of paramount importance to us at Môreson, is working with fruit that is of Franschhoek origin and producing wines that are not only single vineyard and single site, but express the true nature of our beautiful Franschhoek Valley.
Matured in 300L French oak barrels for 18 months, and produced from one of the finest Cape vintages we have experienced this is a wine produced with integrity and soul.
This coming weekend the 18th and 19th of March we will be offering a tasting of a special kind... We have just released the new vintage of our coveted Cabernet Franc.
For R50 per person our guests can do a vertical tasting of 4 different Cabernet Franc vintages: 2006 , 2012 , 2014 and 2015.
Guests need to book in advance.
*The wines are up for purchase, as stock lasts